How Fashion Brands Can Accelerate Cultural Appreciation Instead Of Cultural Appropriation
Whether it is the use of exotic textiles or never-seen-before novelties as an inspiration for design, culture has always played a major role in the fashion industry we know today. The fashion industry, in essence, has its roots in the cultural exchange of ideas. But as the fashion industry has grown and the exchange and borrowing of ideas from other cultures have become commonplace, so has cultural appropriation.
Today, fashion labels and retailers often struggle to walk the fine line between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation, with more and more designers continuing to get called for appropriation.
But as this continues to happen and taking into consideration the cultural and racial divide the U.S. has felt during and even well after the 46th presidential election, I beg to ask, where is exactly the fine line between cultural appropriation and appreciation? And what needs to happen for all cultures and races to be peacefully accepted across the world?
The Different Levels Of Cultural Appropriation
If someone chooses to purchase and wear something from a fashion label that clearly is not representative of their cultural background, is it cultural appropriation on all accounts?
Typically, when a brand sources textiles or designs from another culture, the intention is often genuine. And when a consumer goes and then purchases that piece, oftentimes it’s because they love the item enough to make it their own.
With these intentions in mind, should it be seen as cultural appreciation or appropriation? And if it’s deemed cultural appropriation, why should it be when the decision was made out of admiration?
Furthermore, shouldn’t it be deemed appropriation if and when the culture or heritage is left out of the story entirely? Or if the source of inspiration ties back or represents something horrific within that culture or heritage?
Where Cultural Exchange Just Goes Wrong
Fashion designers have a responsibility when sourcing and looking to different cultures and backgrounds for inspiration, to educates themselves on the textiles, prints and styles they are looking to use.
For example, recently, French luxury brand Louis Vuitton came under fire for selling a monogrammed keffiyeh, which is a traditional Arab headdress that has become a symbol of resistance in Palestine.
The significance behind the checkered keffiyeh dates back to the 1936 Arab Revolt when Palestinian rebels used keffiyeh to hide their identity to avoid arrest. When the British mandate authorities banned the clothing item, all Palestinians started wearing it to make it harder to identify rebels.
As the world witnessed the escalating tensions with Israel in East Jerusalem, Gaza and the West Bank, many Palestinians around the globe saw the Louis Vuitton scarf as an act of cultural appropriation of a national symbol.
Palestinians are not wrong either. Louis Vuitton’s monogrammed keffiyeh launch not only comes off as uneducated, but it demonstrates a clear failure to do their due diligence on this particular motif. This is an example of what not to do when drawing inspiration from international cultures.
The Role Fashion Brands Must Play To Spread Cultural Appreciation
As culture continues to play a role in fashion for the foreseeable future, brands should look to their own platforms to not only boost their own sales but also be more appreciative of various cultures.
Collaborate And Highlight Designers From Different Cultural Backgrounds
The easiest place to start is to collaborate or consult with a designer from that particular cultural background. Since fashion brands do collaborations all the time, teaming up with artists from different cultural backgrounds enables fashion brands to give credit where it is due.
Collaborating with a designer from that particular culture also allows the fashion house to consult with the designer on how to avoid any potential missteps as they are more likely to know what prints, textiles and/or designs to stray away from.
Furthermore, collaborations amplify cultural awareness.
Proper PR And Campaigns Strategies Around The Collection Or Piece
When fashion brands do any kind of collection drop, typically, there’s some type of PR or campaign attached to it. This leaves a tremendous opportunity for brands to speak on why the collaboration came to be and offers the collaborating artist a chance to speak on why and how these developments can help further a cultural appreciation narrative.
At the very least, brands can turn to their listing page to detail out the inspiration and work that went behind creating the piece and highlight the artist that was chosen for the collaboration.
Embracing Cultural Appreciation As More Than Than A Trend, But As A Mission
As we have seen more and more brands take on sustainability missions in recent years to help do their part in saving the planet, similar efforts that acknowledge and appreciate various cultures and the artisans working behind the curtains would not only be transformative but utterly refreshing.
Sustainability has largely become a focus for fashion brands and retailers because consumers have demanded it. To draw a parallel, should brands wait until there is more demand from consumers to see cultural collaborations in their work and design? Or should they take charge and give credit where it is due?
I ask this because while some may want to keep the divide between cultures, the separation is what keeps us from becoming a melting pot of different cultures and ideas and being appreciative of other cultures.
Making efforts to collaborate more with different artists from various cultures not only furthers the narrative of cultural appreciation but it helps consumers become more educated on the pieces they choose to wear and the history and meaning behind each style, print and/or textile.
Originally published at https://retailbum.com on June 14, 2021.
